Shampoos are designed to cleanse the hair and scalp thoroughly, removing dirt, grease and grime without stripping away too much of the protective natural sebum. They contain cleansing agents, perfume and preservatives, and some have conditioning properties that can coat the hair shaft to make the hair appear thicker. The conditioning agents also smooth the cuticle scales so the hair doesn’t tangle, and help eliminate static electricity from the hair when it dries.
The pH Factor:
The letters pH relate to the acid/alkaline level of a substance. This level is calculated on a scale of 1 to 14. Numbers below 7 denote acidity, those over 7 indicate alkalinity. The majority of shampoos range between a pH factor of 5 and 7; medicated varieties have a pH of about 7.3, which is near neutral. Sebum has a pH factor between 4.5 and 5.5, which is mildly acidic. Bacteria cannot survive in this pH, so it is very important to maintain this protective layer in order to keep the skin, scalp and hair in optimum condition. Many shampoos are labelled “pH balanced”, and this means they have the same acidity level as hair. Individuals with fragile, premed or coloured hair should use a shampoo of this type. However, for strong hair in good condition, a pH balanced shampoo is unnecessary, provided shampooing is followed by conditioning.
How To Use A Shampoo:
Always use a product formulated for your hair type – dry, normal, oily or chemically treated – and before shampooing brush your hair to free any tangles and loosen dirt and dead skin cells. Use lukewarm water, as hot water can be uncomfortable. Wet the hair, then apply a small amount of shampoo and gently massage into the roots using the pads of your fingertips; never use your nails. Pay special attention to the hairline area, where make-up and dirt can become trapped. Allow the lather to work its way to the ends of the hair. Don’t rub vigorously or you will stretch the hair. When you have finished shampooing, rinse thoroughly until the water runs clean and clear. Repeat the process only if you think your hair needs it, again using only a small amount of shampoo. Finally, blot the hair with a towel to remove excess water before applying conditioner.
Massaging The Scalp:
Massage helps maintain a healthy scalp. It brings extra blood to the tissues, which enhances the delivery of nutrients and oxygen to the hair follicle. It also reduces scalp tension, which can contribute to hair loss, loosens dead skin cells and helps redress the over production of sebum, which makes hair oily. You can give yourself a scalp massage at home. Use warm olive oil if the scalp is dry or tight. Try equal parts of which hazel and mineral water if you have an oily scalp. For a normal scalp, use equal parts rose and mineral waters. Begin the massage by gently rotating your scalp using the tips of your fingers. Start at the forehead, move to the sides and work over the crown to the nape of the neck. Then place your fingertips firmly on the scalp without exerting too much pressure. Push the fingers together then pull them apart through the hair in a kneading motion, without lifting or moving them. When you have massaged for about a minute, move to the next section. Continue until your entire scalp and upper neck have been treated.
Shampoo Tips: